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DO NOT waste bait by adding it into timbers that do not contain live termites. The colony is killed only if workers take enough of the bait back to the nest. And they'll only take it whenever they can harvest it, undisturbed, from inside the damaged lumber you've found. .
See the uneven surface of the window frame. Termites had eaten it out, in certain regions leaving only the paint.
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Make an opening into the termites using a pointed knife or fine screwdriver. The gap should be no bigger than about 5mm diameter to begin with. (It ought to be enlarged only when it's time to bring the cache of bait). You can pry into the surface of the wood where it seems spongy, thin or hollow.
It's only as a last resort you should make an effort to open a tunnel on a wood or foundation surface. .
Once you've broken into into where it's hollow, wait for a minute or so. If termites are not there, the soldiers usually come to safeguard the opening while workers repair it. You will see their antennae and their heads blocking the gap. If no live termites appear, leave the hole open and return later or check next moment.
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This reveals the way planters will come out of the infested timber into a foil coated mass of bait taped to the surface. Alternatively, if the surface is flat, the feeder might be fixed within the hole and the termites will enter it into harvest the bait.
If the wood has a level surface, make the hole from corners so you can line it up with the hole in the base of the feeder. If the access hole to the termites is on a round pole or another situation where you cannot repair the feeder to it, you can earn a pouch of aluminium foil and duct tape to hold the bait in place.
If you're using the foil method, carefully pull back the edge of the tacky tape to inspect and to replenish the lure. If you are using the feeder method, it is not as disturbing if you can add more bait to the original feeder.
The termites you may see as dark brown nests high up in a tree are seldom pests of significance. But the main subterranean termites which do this 99% of the $damage we mentioned earlier, will often nest inside the central pipe or hollowed out heart of a tree. Mastos, the giant northern termite, dont always await the decay of the pipe.
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(Watch the special box on Mastos).
If at a knockout post colonising flight time a couple find their way into a hollow tree through possibly a dead/broken-off branch or even in through a scar from flame in the bottom they could not possibly have better conditions. Theres plenty to eat, moisture and protection. A 50 metre traveling to your residence would not be out of the question. .
If you've got a large eucalypt, peppercorn or even a mature fruit tree nearby, you ought to check it. Use an 15-20mm auger bit long enough to drill into the centre of the trunk at about shoulder height. Drill at a slight downward angle and when you feel less resistance it'll be because you have reached the pipe.
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If not, you could slip in a long thin grass foliage into the drill hole, leave it there for a minute and withdraw it gradually. Termites might be found holding on, attacking it. If still no live termites are found, come back in half an hour or next morning; when there's termite lifetime inside, they will be repairing or have mended the opening using their sand mixture. .
In this situation you dont need to view live termites; its just more satisfying to know you have actually killed a colony when you choose the next steps
Re-open the drill hole when it's been repairedUsing a funnel, plastic tubing and watering can/bucket, pour at least 20-30 minutes of a chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin solution down into the shrub. These insecticidal concentrations can be bought by a local hardware store. They may be known by several brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the tag.